CONTACT:
info@cdnalpine.com
Box 40087
Canmore, AB
T1W 3H9
[About our Guides]
[Prices & Booking]
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Elevation: 3954 / 12972ft - highest peak in Canadian Rockies
Location: North of Jasper
Season: mid July to early September.
Logistics: All climbs on Mt. Robson are difficult and take multiple days to complete. The weather on this
great peak is highly variable and good conditions are never guaranteed. If weather does not allow an attempt on Robson,
other nearby mountains will be attempted instead. Unless you have extensive previous experience, it is required that you
complete at least one major climb with one of our guides before signing up for a Robson trip. The rate for all guiding on
Mt. Robson is $500/day for 1 person and $575/day for 2 people plus all expenses such as camping & entrance fees(minimal),
food ($45/day per person), helicopter access (variable), etc. Final packing will take place as a group before starting trip.
Please contact us for more information about climbing Mount Robson.
Kain Route (IV)
Length of Trip: 3-4 days with Helicopter Access, 6 days without Helicopter Access.
Max Group Size: 2
Prerequisites: Previous glacier mountaineering experience and a high fitness level.
The most popular route on the mountain and another Rockies classic. Climbers can choose to
fly in and out of a high camp at the "Dome" which maximizes odds of success. Those looking for
the full Mt. Robson experience may also choose to spend 1 long day hiking and a second long day
climbing up a glacier to reach the same high camp. From high camp, an ice face known as the Kain Face
is ascended to reach the upper ridge. The ridge is followed to the summit with at least one steep ice
pitch along the way. Descent back to high camp is made by the same route. All trips are scheduled to
allow for at least one bad weather day and ample time to acclimatize to the higher altitudes. If weather
and energy levels allow, ascents of the Helmet or Mt. Resplendant may also be attempted.
The Kain Route on Mt. Robson ascends the ice slopes in middle of picture then up the ridge above.
North Face (IV)
Length of Trip: 4-5 days
Max Group Size: 1
Prerequisites: Previous glacier mountaineering experience, including some difficult ascents such
as the North Faces of Athabasca and Andromeda. Very high fitness level and the ability to undertake an 18+ hour summit day while
carrying an overnight pack. Only available at the discression of your guide after completing at least one other major alpine climb.
The North Face of Mt. Robson
One of the biggest prizes in the Rockies, the ascent of Mt. Robson's North Face is a big notch in any alpinists ice axe.
Day 1 is spent hiking into Berg Lake below the face. The second day is spent climbing rock cliffs to reach the glacier where
another night will be spent. After a very early start (likely around midnight), you will start up the massive ice face which is
followed for hundreds of meters to gain the upper section of the Emperor Ridge. This last part of the ridge will likely be
the technical crux of the route as you climb up, around, under, and through Robson's famous double cornices "gargoyles".
After a short break on top, the long descent down the South Face will commence with a possibility of a night in the hut
half way down.
Climbing the last stretch of the Emperor Ridge above the North Face of Mt. Robson.
Other Routes
- Furher Ridge (IV 5.4) A mixed snow, ice, and rock climb beside the Kain route. Only available at the discression of
a guide you have already done some climbing with.
The South Face of Mt. Robson in the spring time.
Gear List
Group gear such as ropes, carabiners, tents and stoves will be provided by Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides. The personal
gear listed below is mandatory. Please inform us well in advance if you need to borrow any of these items.
Items that are not available for loan must be rented or purchased. Rental and purchase information can
be found here.
Those attempting the North Face need to have high quality, very lightweight, gear as everything will be carried up and
over the mountain.
- Backpack (about 50 litres)
- Ice Climbing/Mountaineering Boots (must be heavily insulated leather such as Scarpa Summits or La Sportiva Nepals, or double plastic)
- Crampons
- Mountaineering Axe + 1 Ice climbing axe (Kain Route)- available for loan
- 2 Ice Climbing Axes (N. Face Route) - available for loan
- Harness - available for loan
- Helmet - available for loan
- Sweater/Fleece
- Goretex Jacket
- Goretex Pants
- Down or Insulated Synthetic Jacket with hood.
- Long Underwear
- Gloves (1 lightweight and one warm pair)
- Heavy Mitts (1 pair)
- Toque
- Sunglasses (important!)
- Headlamp with extra batteries.
- Sunscreen
- Gaitors
- Sleeping Bag (-20 for Kain Route; -10C lightweight down filled bag for North Face)
- Sleeping Pad (foamy and Thermarest for Kain; Medium thickness evazote foam for North Face)
- Reading Book (not on the North Face!)
- Extra Socks
- Water Bottles (2 litres)
- Food (can be arranged individually or as a group)
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